You know the question: what’s your favourite thing to eat in the world? I used to hum and haw, but now I believe I can unequivocally say that my favourite dish to prepare and eat is pasta with clams or mussels. There is something magical in these creatures that permeates the pasta and delivers a flavour that is more than the sum of its parts. It’s that fifth flavour: deliciousness. It’s so simple, but so easy to screw up. I start with thinly sliced garlic and sauté this in a good glug of olive oil. Next I add a little bit of chili flakes and let this flavour the oil. If I have some, I’ll throw in some halved cherry tomatoes (this one had Stoney Paradise sun golds, which are fucking awesome) – this would probably anger most Italians, but I like them in there. Then I add the clams or mussels to the pan and add a splash of dry white wine. The pan is covered and the shellfish slowly open and let their juices out. This is the magic stuff. There’s just something about that god damn juice – it’s more important than the actual meat. Once the clams or mussels are open, cooked spaghetti or linguine is added to the pan, left just a shy underdone, so it can soak up the juices in the pan and come together in a beautifully emulsified sauce. Now toss, toss, toss the pasta with the sauce for a minute or two. Then add a little more nice olive oil, some chopped parsley and a squeeze of lemon juice. That’s it. My favourite thing to eat in the whole wide world.