Gumbo

Last year I was lucky enough to do some consulting for a new restaurant with a focus on the cooking of the Southern United States, with a focus on New Orleans. I knew next to nothing about this type of cooking, but soon realized that it was far more varied and interesting than I had ever given it credit for. One of the dishes I fell in love with was Gumbo, a spicy soup with a hotly debated past and many variations. I won’t get into the history of the dish, but check out this story in The Atlantic for a nice run down on the past, present and future of Gumbo.

Try out this great recipe for chicken and sausage gumbo from New Orleans chef John Besh. It’s the first one I tried and well worth the effort. The funnest part of the whole process is making the roux – a very, very dark roux – which adds a distinctive bitter edge to the finished dish. Every time I make it, I keep trying to take the roux that little bit further. I haven’t burnt it yet, but its bound to happen eventually.

↑ Old school cajun chef Justin Wilson’s chicken and sausage gumbo.

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Black Garlic Granola

With some fermented black garlic left over from an event a few weeks back, I’ve been playing around with it the last little while. This latest experiment was once again inspired by the Eleven Madison Park cookbook (solid gold by the way) and their section on crumbles and granolas. I thought the jet black garlic would look good in some sort of puffed rice, nut business. There was some brown rice and quinoa already cooked in the fridge, so in it went to the dehydrator, and many hours later (5 or 6), once completely dry, it was flash fried in 400°F oil. The trick with puffing rice and cereals without burning them is to get them in and out of the oil as quickly as possible. Just throw them in, watch them puff (takes about 3 seconds), strain, and blot on paper towel. These ones were seasoned with a bit of curry salt. I had an intuition that curry and black garlic would work together – something about the smell – and it does! There was also some toasted almonds in the cupboard, so they got chopped up and mixed through as well. The black garlic was just cut into small pieces and dried out a bit as it is quite sticky and apt to stain everything around it. A little cayenne for heat and that was that. The sky is really the limit we these mixes. I’ve seen dried fruit, fried herbs, citrus zest and many other things mixed in with the base. Try it out!

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Fried Chicken

In my mind, frying chicken is one of the funnest things to do on the planet earth. First off, there is the transformational process of taking a pale, floppy, dead bird, and through a process that can only be described as magic (or black magic), turning it into a piece of golden brown art. You can’t discount the joys of danger factor as well – fooling around with pots of 350°F oil is always a good time. Finally, you get to the best part: eating it. Crispy, salty, moist, meaty, delicious. What else do you need?

Just add gravy ↑….or a drizzle of honey….

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Black Garlic

I just tried this cool technique for making what is essentially black garlic leather in the Eleven Madison Park cookbook. You take fermented black garlic cloves, pass them through a tamis or fine-meshed sieve, roll the puree between two pieces of greased parchment paper to about a 1/16-inch thickness, remove the top layer of paper and dry the mixture out in a very low oven or dehydrator. At 125°F for 5 hours, this batch was almost too dry, but will have its uses for sure. Next time I will try it slightly wetter, hopefully just dry enough to cut into shapes.

My first thought was how it would look cool draped over a piece of white fish and gently steamed, possibly with a delicate mousse between it and the fish. I put out the question on facebook to see what some chef friends might do with it and the best answer was from my friend Dave, sous chef at Hawksworth: “Bust that shit up, fine, but not too fine, roast russian garlic cloves, while they’re hot and still tacky, toss them through the shard powder (think about what that would look like). Two of those cloves on top of crispy skinned loup de mer (skin side up), bouillabaisse consommé, some gorg piece veg, (baby navet, salsify peelings, breakfast radish) at the bottom of the bowl, wilted young mustard greens, an grated botarga?” Sounds amazing.

It’s a fun little technique with a myriad of possible uses. The book is full of great recipes that really seem to work (I’ve tried 4 or 5 things out of it now), and is worth buying for the base recipe section alone, which includes purees, gels, vinaigrettes and a million other little things for all your fine-dining needs.

Cooking is fun……

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Mountain Rose Apples

This is a Mountain Rose apple and comes courtesy of Tyler Gray, founder of Mikuni Wild Harvest (and my neighbour). They come from the Hood Valley in Central Oregon and are grown only by a small number of orchards. As you can see, the one truly unique characteristic of this apple is its rosy-red flesh, which I’m told maintains its colour throughout the cooking process (bonus). Their flavour is described as “strawberry lemonade-ish” and has a texture similar to a granny smith. I am going to try a few things out with them and will report back with results. Try juicing them maybe? Then a jelly? Mignonette for oysters?…….

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Lobster

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Sweater Season

We’re very excited to be partnering with The Found and the Freed, Vancouver’s hottest pop-up shop that features re-purposed authentic antique collections found across Canada and the States. Drop in before the Sweater Season Event to say hello to the lovely ladies on their official re-opening, on November 18th.

MENU

 
small plates:

yarrow meadows duck confit tortellini in a pine mushroom broth

seared qualicum bay scallops with bacon wrapped salsify and apple-mustard vinaigrette

canapés:

caramelized onion, marinated anchovy and nicoise olive toast

pig face and sweetbread croquette with pumpkin-currant chutney (Meat Fest 3 winning dish!)

grass fed beef tartare with parmesan crisp and watercress

sweet bite:

quince beignet with almond and brandy caramel
 
Tickets: $25 via paypal. Email owen@butterontheendive.ca for payment details.
 
There will be a cash bar with beer, wine and cocktails for a fair price.

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Espelette Peppers

Espelette peppers courtesy of Dana from Joy Road Catering. Thank you.

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Meat Fest 3

Last week I had the great pleasure of attending Meat Fest 3 in Penticton. Spearheaded by my friend Stanley Zappa, it is a celebration of local agriculture, and, you guessed it, meat – specifically championing the use of secondary cuts and offal (the organs and entrails of animals). It took place at the Elite Restaurant in downtown Penticton, which is an old school diner that looks like it hasn’t changed much in the past 50 years. There’s Elvis pictures on the wall, meat hooks in the walk-in cooler and a 10 foot long flat top griddle dominating the kitchen. I couldn’t think of a better venue for an event such as this.

Many local chefs and food lovers brought a dish, which was presented family-style for all to try. The crowd circulated, sampling spleen meatballs, drinking a nice glass of Black Hills wine, and eventually voting on their favourite dish of the evening. My dish was a pigs head and sweetbread croquette with pumpkin chutney, which was garnished with a crudely made pig jack-o-lantern, which was done in my hotel room earlier with a dollar store knife.

Check out the video above for a snippet of the festivities. Thanks to Stanley and his team of organizers for putting one of the best darn food events B.C. has ever seen. Let’s make next year the biggest Meat Fest yet!

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From The Kill Floor

I found this interesting video from Brooklyn’s foodcurated.com on the daily operations of a small abattoir in upstate New York.

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