Fried Chicken

In my mind, frying chicken is one of the funnest things to do on the planet earth. First off, there is the transformational process of taking a pale, floppy, dead bird, and through a process that can only be described as magic (or black magic), turning it into a piece of golden brown art. You can’t discount the joys of danger factor as well – fooling around with pots of 350°F oil is always a good time. Finally, you get to the best part: eating it. Crispy, salty, moist, meaty, delicious. What else do you need?

Just add gravy ↑….or a drizzle of honey….

Leave a comment

Black Garlic

I just tried this cool technique for making what is essentially black garlic leather in the Eleven Madison Park cookbook. You take fermented black garlic cloves, pass them through a tamis or fine-meshed sieve, roll the puree between two pieces of greased parchment paper to about a 1/16-inch thickness, remove the top layer of paper and dry the mixture out in a very low oven or dehydrator. At 125°F for 5 hours, this batch was almost too dry, but will have its uses for sure. Next time I will try it slightly wetter, hopefully just dry enough to cut into shapes.

My first thought was how it would look cool draped over a piece of white fish and gently steamed, possibly with a delicate mousse between it and the fish. I put out the question on facebook to see what some chef friends might do with it and the best answer was from my friend Dave, sous chef at Hawksworth: “Bust that shit up, fine, but not too fine, roast russian garlic cloves, while they’re hot and still tacky, toss them through the shard powder (think about what that would look like). Two of those cloves on top of crispy skinned loup de mer (skin side up), bouillabaisse consommé, some gorg piece veg, (baby navet, salsify peelings, breakfast radish) at the bottom of the bowl, wilted young mustard greens, an grated botarga?” Sounds amazing.

It’s a fun little technique with a myriad of possible uses. The book is full of great recipes that really seem to work (I’ve tried 4 or 5 things out of it now), and is worth buying for the base recipe section alone, which includes purees, gels, vinaigrettes and a million other little things for all your fine-dining needs.

Cooking is fun……

Leave a comment

Mountain Rose Apples

This is a Mountain Rose apple and comes courtesy of Tyler Gray, founder of Mikuni Wild Harvest (and my neighbour). They come from the Hood Valley in Central Oregon and are grown only by a small number of orchards. As you can see, the one truly unique characteristic of this apple is its rosy-red flesh, which I’m told maintains its colour throughout the cooking process (bonus). Their flavour is described as “strawberry lemonade-ish” and has a texture similar to a granny smith. I am going to try a few things out with them and will report back with results. Try juicing them maybe? Then a jelly? Mignonette for oysters?…….

Leave a comment

Lobster

Leave a comment

Sweater Season

We’re very excited to be partnering with The Found and the Freed, Vancouver’s hottest pop-up shop that features re-purposed authentic antique collections found across Canada and the States. Drop in before the Sweater Season Event to say hello to the lovely ladies on their official re-opening, on November 18th.

MENU

 
small plates:

yarrow meadows duck confit tortellini in a pine mushroom broth

seared qualicum bay scallops with bacon wrapped salsify and apple-mustard vinaigrette

canapés:

caramelized onion, marinated anchovy and nicoise olive toast

pig face and sweetbread croquette with pumpkin-currant chutney (Meat Fest 3 winning dish!)

grass fed beef tartare with parmesan crisp and watercress

sweet bite:

quince beignet with almond and brandy caramel
 
Tickets: $25 via paypal. Email owen@butterontheendive.ca for payment details.
 
There will be a cash bar with beer, wine and cocktails for a fair price.

Leave a comment

Espelette Peppers

Espelette peppers courtesy of Dana from Joy Road Catering. Thank you.

Leave a comment

Meat Fest 3

Last week I had the great pleasure of attending Meat Fest 3 in Penticton. Spearheaded by my friend Stanley Zappa, it is a celebration of local agriculture, and, you guessed it, meat – specifically championing the use of secondary cuts and offal (the organs and entrails of animals). It took place at the Elite Restaurant in downtown Penticton, which is an old school diner that looks like it hasn’t changed much in the past 50 years. There’s Elvis pictures on the wall, meat hooks in the walk-in cooler and a 10 foot long flat top griddle dominating the kitchen. I couldn’t think of a better venue for an event such as this.

Many local chefs and food lovers brought a dish, which was presented family-style for all to try. The crowd circulated, sampling spleen meatballs, drinking a nice glass of Black Hills wine, and eventually voting on their favourite dish of the evening. My dish was a pigs head and sweetbread croquette with pumpkin chutney, which was garnished with a crudely made pig jack-o-lantern, which was done in my hotel room earlier with a dollar store knife.

Check out the video above for a snippet of the festivities. Thanks to Stanley and his team of organizers for putting one of the best darn food events B.C. has ever seen. Let’s make next year the biggest Meat Fest yet!

4 Comments

From The Kill Floor

I found this interesting video from Brooklyn’s foodcurated.com on the daily operations of a small abattoir in upstate New York.

Leave a comment

Chefs Manifesto

[Photo: Ines Menacho]

I came across a letter today that was penned recently by some of the worlds most influential chefs at the Mistura Gastronomic Conference in Lima, Peru. These chefs (Ferran Adriá, Yukkio Hattori, Massimo Bottura, Michel Bras, René Redzepi, Gastón Acurio, Alex Atala and Dan Barber), who make up the advisory board of the Basque Culinary Center, all sat down and put pen to paper to articulate their thoughts on the responsibility of the chefs of tomorrow. Thoroughly motivating and true right down to the last word.

“OPEN LETTER TO THE CHEFS OF TOMORROW

At a time when society is rapidly changing, our profession must actively repond to new challenges.

The culinary profession of today offers a wide variety of opportunities and trajectories. We chefs remain united by a passion for cooking and share the belief that our work is also a way of life.

For us, cooking offers a world of possibilities, allowing us to freely express ourselves, pursue our interests, and fulfill our dreams.

Indeed, we believe that cooking is not only a response to the basic human need of feeding ourselves; it is also more than the search for happiness. Cooking is a powerful, transformative tool that, through the joint effort of co-producers—whether we be chefs, producers or eaters—can change the way the world nourishes itself.

We dream of a future in which the chef is socially engaged, conscious of and responsible for his or her contribution to a just and sustainable society.

As members of the International Advisory Board of the Basque Culinary Center, with a broad range of experiences, we keep dreaming about and reflecting upon the challenges to our profession. It is our hope that these reflections will serve as a reference and inspiration for the young people who will become tomorrow’s chefs.

To all of you, we direct this reflection, entitled An Open Letter to the Chefs of Tomorrow and signed in Lima on September 10, 2011.

Dear chef,

In relation with nature

1. Our work depends on nature’s gifts. As a result we all have a responsibility to know and protect nature, to use our cooking and our voices as a tool for recovering heirloom and endangered varieties and species, and promoting new ones. In this way we can help protect the earth’s biodiversity, as well as preserve and create flavors and preparations.

2. Over the course of thousands of years, the dialogue between humans and nature has created agriculture. We are all, in other words, part of an ecological system. To ensure that this ecology is as healthy as possible, let’s encourage and practice sustainable production in the field and in the kitchen. In this way, we can create authentic flavor.

In relation with society

3. As chefs, we are the product of our culture. Each of us is heir to a legacy of flavors, dining customs and cooking techniques. Yet we don’t have to be passive. Through our cooking, our ethics, and our aesthetics, we can contribute to the culture and identity of a people, a region, a country. We can also serve as an important bridge with other cultures.

4. We practice a profession that has the power to affect the socio-economic development of others. We can have a significant economic impact by encouraging the exportation of our own culinary culture and fomenting others’ interest in it. At the same time, by collaborating with local producers and employing fair economic practices, we can generate sustainable local wealth and financially strengthen our communities.

In relation with knowledge

5. Although a primary goal of our profession is to provide happiness and stir emotions, through our own work and by working with experts in the fields of health and education, we have a unique opportunity to transmit our knowledge to members of the public, helping them, for example, to acquire good cooking habits, and to learn to make healthy choices about the foods they eat.

6. Through our profession, we have the opportunity to generate new knowledge, whether it be something so simple as the development of a recipe or as complicated as an in-depth research project. And just as we have each benefited from the teaching of others, we have a responsibility, in turn, to share our learning.

In relation with values

7. We live in a time in which cooking can be a beautiful form of self-expression. Cooking today is a field in constant evolution that includes many different disciplines. For that reason, it’s important to carry out our quests and fulfill our dreams with authenticity, humility, and above all, passion. Ultimately, we are each guided by our own ethics and values.”

Download the .pdf here and share it with your friends!

1 Comment

Tasty Duck

I made some very tasty duck over the weekend for an event we catered and wanted to share the process.

The idea was I wanted to do a simple smoked duck breast salad, with some frisee lettuce, roasted beets and this condiment I’ve taken to calling dried fruit and nut “granola” (put your fingers in the air and make quotation marks as you say it). I met a very modern chef recently and he made a similar thing to go with lamb – I hijacked the idea and developed my own recipe.

I’ll start with the duck. I got some very nice breasts from Yarrow Meadows Farm through Two Rivers Specialty Meats. It was the first time I had used this particular duck, and knew from the second it arrived that they were of high quality. With a nice size, around 200 grams a piece, and a gorgeous light coloured flesh, I would call them awesome. First step was to clean any excess fat and sinew off the breasts and put them in a 3 % brine over night (see recipe below).

Duck Brine
1 litre water
30 grams kosher salt
15 grams sugar
1 gram pink salt
8 grams coriander seeds
4 grams black peppercorns
4 grams fennel seeds
4 pieces whole clove
2 pieces star anise
1 cinnamon stick
1 sprig rosemary
3 sprigs thyme

method: combine the water, salt and sugar in a pot and bring to the simmer. While the liquid is heating, toast the spices until fragrant, and then add to the liquid with the thyme and rosemary. Once the brine comes to the simmer, remove from the heat and let cool.

I removed the breasts after 12 hours, dried them off and sprinkled them with smoke powder from Sosa Products that the same modern chef introduced into to me. It smells intensely of smoke – I put it in one of my cupboards in a sealed container and then a ziploc, but it was still so strong I had to put it outside. The smell doesn’t translate to the flavour though, which is very subtle. The breasts were then vacuum packed and cooked at 58° celsius in the circulator for 45 minutes. Once they were removed, I iced them down until service, when the fat would be rendered and the meat gently re-heated before slicing, which you can see in the picture above. They turned out nice, with a slight scent of smoke and a gorgeous rosy coloured flesh.

The “granola” I speak of is a fun little bit of texture I’m playing around with. Using a base of puffed rice and quinoa (which is made by cooking the grains, drying them out in a low oven or dehydrator and then flash frying them at 400°F for a few seconds until puffed), I add macerated dried fruit, nuts, spice and herbs to liven it up a bit. I will put up a recipe for it shortly, as it is fun to make and good to eat.

So duck is good and I like cooking. The end.

 

Leave a comment