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A Salumi Pilgrimage

January 16, 2009

Yesterday, Lisa and I headed down the I-5 to visit our neighbors to the south, and have lunch at the now famous Salumi in Seattle.

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Go there! Now!

“What is the purpose of your trip today?”, the U.S. border guard asked.

“Uh, we’re going to get some Lunch”, I replied. I could see the sirens going off in his head.

“All the way to Seattle for Lunch? Likely story”. Things were going off the rails fast – I’m sure he thought we were going to do drop off a couple pounds of marijuana at some sketchy warehouse in Tacoma.

“Yeah, there’s this great place called Salumi I’ve heard a lot about…”

A look of relief washed over his face. “Hey did you know that it’s owned by Mario Batali’s dad?”

“Yeah! Have you been?”

“Not yet, but I’ve heard great things. Go on through”. Ah, the power of meat.

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Waiting at the Peace Arch border crossing. How do I explain the pit-bulls in the trunk?

Except for the odd patch of intense fog, the drive to Seattle was without drama. We got off the interstate and headed right for Pioneer Square, a cool neighborhood close to downtown where Salumi is located. Before we got our meat on, we had some of Seattle’s most famous export: coffee. We found our caffeine fix at Zeitgesit Coffee, an artsy-fartsy place (I mean that in the nicest way possible) just around the corner from Salumi.

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We were told that there is always a line-up, which is a good sign.

Salumi Artisan Cured Meats was started by Armandino Batali (father of Mario) after retiring from Boeing, where he spent 31 years a s a process control engineer. Following his departure from the aviation world, he went to New York to work with is son and to Italy to refine his salumi making skills. When he returned to Seattle, he opened the shop in Pioneer square and it quickly took off. Along with their line of cured meats, there are daily pasta, soup and entree specials, and of course, their famous sandwiches.

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We finally got inside, and were now forced to make a decision.

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The smell of cured meat is intoxicating, especially when you’re hungry.

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Before we got inside, I had visons of the soup nazi being behind the sandwich line, but there was only friendly ladies making delicious food.

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We got a meatball sandwich with provolone and onions on baguette, as well as a finocchiona with mozzarella on dense olive oil bread. The winner: Meatballs! But there are no real losers in this competition. I left with a half-pound each of Agrumi, Parprika and Finnochiona, as well as a guanciale. Will get back to you with a taste test.

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This was sketchiest parking garage I have ever parked in.

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After lunch went for a little walk downtown. Here is a cheesemaker at Beecher’s Cheese, making their “flagship”, a semi-hard cow’s milk cheese which is aged for one year. Tried it and it tasted like someting between gruyere and cheddar, with nice calcium crystals.

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Then it was off to Capitol Hill to check out a couple of places I had heard good things about. The first being Cafe Presse, a French restaurant which is the sister restaurant of Le Pichet, a downtown bistro.

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A salad was in order, as well as more meat, in the form of beef tartare. Both were nice, simple and well prepared.

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In between glasses of wine, espressos were downed, creating a sense of euphoria that can’t be described.

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Random sushi art.

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Lisa’s boss Dustin told her about an awesome pizza place called Via Tribunali on Pike St.

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Very dark inside, but we had Augustine to guide our way.

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The wood-burning oven imported from Italy. I want one……now.

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Margherita and Lisa. Like Campagnolo here in Vancouver, the pizza came unsliced. No problem, just tear off a piece and go for it.

Drive home was a mess. Fog, fog, fog. Couldn’t see more than 20 feet in front of me most of the time. To add to the pain, the Canucks broadcast kicked in somewhere outside of Everett, allowing us to hear the 4th unanswerred goal by Phoenix. 4-1 final score. Bummer, but not enough to spoil what was a wonderful day in the U.S. of A.

If you ever get bored of the selection of restaurants in Vancouver, go to Seattle for a couple days. There seemes to be a lot of really interesting places to check out and it’s only three hours away. I Will be back soon to go to Lampreia and Lark.

9 Comments leave one →
  1. nancy permalink
    January 17, 2009 1:28 am

    Wonderful.

  2. Chris I permalink
    January 17, 2009 7:41 am

    MMMM…. Meat meat meat, i love meat!!!

  3. January 17, 2009 9:20 am

    An excellent tale.

    Will have to try a few of those places next time we are in Seattle.

  4. stephanie permalink
    January 17, 2009 2:35 pm

    I went there once with the girls. We went with the chef of Mistral so M. Batali took us to the back walk-ins to show us around and gave us a special treatment (extra food and tripes) But between you and me, I think the old man was just happy to hang out with 4 awesome young girls hihi!
    Good story!

  5. January 18, 2009 8:18 pm

    I had the same desire for some of the best cured meat in the Country so on my Vacation last month to Seattle I found it and after travelling all the way from Hawaii it was F%@$##@%ing Closed for a week, Oh well next time.
    If your there for Breakfast next timne go the Crumpet shop(On 1st and Pike) and have a few fresh made in house crumpets and a big mug of tea.also try the Pink door in Post Alley when the music is on in the back room.
    GQ

  6. January 23, 2009 12:14 am

    Great post! Going to Seattle with 5 girlfriends this weekend and one of the main reasons I wanted to go was so I could go to Salumi….they always let me pick where we eat and I told them we are going to this well known little deli, I also “accidentally” forgot to mention that there probably isnt one thing for them to eat on the menu seeing as half of them are vegetarian!! Just found out they are closed on wknds…guess thats what I get for being selfish!!haha

  7. January 29, 2009 12:51 am

    I ate there last year and I still dream of the porchetta. They didn’t seem impressed by us taking pictures though…

  8. Annemarie permalink
    February 19, 2009 2:00 pm

    Just got back from 2 days in Seattle and had a great dinner at Lark. You should definitely check it out next time you are in Seattle. Thanks for the tip.

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  1. Salumi: Lucky Seattle « Ethnic Eats – Sampling the World’s Cuisine Without Leaving Vancouver

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